Sunday, 10 June 2007

Mercury restaurant reviews

Once again, I read in todays Sunday Mercury (or Tasmanian, to be specific), a pretty hard lashing of another eatery. Today it is the turn of Alexanders of Lenna; last week it was Scorchers, the wood-fired pizza place at Orford. A while back it was Dom's Asian at Blackmans Bay.

Thank heavens there are also 2 letters to the Editor today complaining about the Scorchers review which maybe provides a modicum of balance - but - I really think GP was TOO honest with his comments.

OK - a restaurant reviewer should do what the job description says, warts and all. But this is Tassie. And to be more specific, this is even smaller Hobart. We are a tiny little pinprick in the scheme of things. We have business people here trying their damnedest to make a living in this tiny place.

The owners of Scorchers are some of those business people. Domenic's establishment is another.

Whatever your opinion of Dom's food, there is absolutely no disputing the guy has well and truly served his Tasmanian restaurant apprenticeship qualification to be allowed to trade in peace without being written about so relatively savagely.

These are suburban (very) small businesses. They are people who have no pretensions. They put on no airs and graces about their food or their abilities. They just work bloody hard at what they know and obviously must love to persistently come back for more of the same time and time again.

In the regional areas, your name is everything. Credibility counts for so much. It is the difference between money in the till at the end of the evening or not. The lack of customers in a smaller place like Orford or Blackmans Bay is critical, and spells disaster. These are real peoples lives on the line here. This is what you are potentially affecting when you write so publicly about their businesses in The Mercury.

I possess a copy of a letter written about 15 years ago from the mother of a young guy who committed suicide. It details circumstances that to the ordinary person would not seem at all extraordinary or different.

To this particular lad, a series of casual incidents (casual from the other peoples perspectives) led directly to this guy killing himself.

Reading this letter, and thinking seriously about the consequences of other peoples reactions to things we all do in everyday life, served to highlight to me how careful we should be in our responsibility of others lives.

I know many see my expressions of opinion as too soft-cock (to use a rude but, to me, expressive word). Well I learnt from reading that emotive mums letter years ago. I learnt that there are ALWAYS two sides to every story.

Lenna is a larger business, but still deserving of a bit milder criticism than the one handed them today. To be honest, after reading the review today, my immediate thought was that I wouldn't bother going there, sheerly on Graeme's say-so and description of the food. My next thought was, "But I like Lenna, so I will go there again".

That's because I know (roughly) Graeme's food preferences. I know we don't share a lot of the same favourite foods. And that's fine. He lives his life. I live mine.

But others might blindly do exactly as directed by our bible, The Merc. That's the more dangerous bit.

So - I recommend we all make up our own minds - at Dom's, at Scorchers and at Lenna. Then if we still hate it, give it another go. Be fair about it. We all deserve a second, and maybe third, chance.

19 comments:

Anonymous said...

Couldn't agree more Rita. It can unfairly hurt business.

However the bit that I find the biggest challenge to overcome in you argument is the notion of 'this is a small town'. It shouldn't matter because businesses in larger cities also do it tough, have paid their dues etc. They are given no quarter when the reviewer comes along. Its tough out there & reviewers can make it tougher. What do we do, ban them, censor their words?

I felt for the chef at Lenna simply because the review seemed condecending, Graeme was damming with faint praise.

The power of the printed word in a daily paper is questionable. Reviewers have their predudices. It is only his opinion after all? You are on the money when you say generally to go & see for yourselves & make your own mind up.
Yes we remember the bad reviews but who remembers the good ones?
At the other end, when he gives a good review he is 'playing favourites'. Seems to me that there is no win/win in this game.
As to the suicide issue. In recent years a Michelin starred chef in France sadly committed suicide after losing on of his three stars.

Criticism is hard to take no matter what people say. I do not know anyone who can really soak it up stoically without untangling the intent or the moral position of the critic. It takes a very well ajusted & secure person to do so & who is?

Like the moment as a child we learn that our parents are not infallible so too we must question our critics & look at them through the prism of their own shortcomings. Then we are all equal & perhaps we can put their words into context.

Rita said...

I take your point about the 'small town' issue. What I should have added in my post is that because our restaurant-regulars/dining out population in Hobart is so much smaller than in other capital cities, it is way more crucial that you build that knowledge and awareness into your comments and criticism of businesses here.

It wouldn't matter a toss if Scorchers or Lenna or Doms were written about using the exact words and opinions that GP used in the Merc, if those restaurants were placed in Melbourne city, or Sydney. Those cities are so huge, and have enough population to handle any results of negative reviews about them.

Not so Hobart, and environs.

We all know the old chestnut of 'it's not what you know but who you know' is the way Hobart works. I believe that sort of review for these businesses adds to that ethos. "If Graeme Phillips says it's crap, then I won't go there. He should know. He's the expert who gets paid by the Mercury to do this".

Yes - ideally all businesses should be able to take it on the chin. But I reckon here in Hobart we should cut them some slack.

Anonymous said...

Agree with you, Rita and Gobbler. Still remember the way he slated Kawasemi for using crab sticks in one type of sushi - even though the chef said it was traditionally Japanese. He ignored the numerous other types of sushi which did not use the 'seafood extender'.Kawasemi had only opened a short time before this review - I'm glad it survived as it's one of my hidden treasures.
Too much about personal taste, not enough balancing of different viewpoints.
Kzee

Anonymous said...

For the record, My wife took me to Orford for a surprise birthday treat several years ago. We had a lovely day and we ate that night at Scorchers. for my money it was great value and was perfect for what it was. Possibly not the greatest pizza experience I have had but it was solid, tasty and importantly used a good degree of local product.

The Mercury seriously needs to look at its Editorial balance when they will dish a restaurant on one page but sing the praises of another with a paid advertorial on the other

Rita said...

Hi Kzee & hrv - thanks for the comments.

Obviously I agree with you. There SHOULD be a bit more balancing of viewpoints, and it would be nice if editorial balance was loooked at - but this is not a perfect world, so you know it'll never happen.

I suppose that's the beauty of these blogs. At least there is SOME forum where we can express what we feel.

I too have eaten at Scorchers & really enjoy their pizzas, particularly the Garlic Pizza. Simple but damn yummy.

PS - sorry for not addressing you properly, Gobbler, in my response to your comment! I just went straight in there with my response, without addressing you properly.

Anonymous said...

Thats OK Rita, you dont need to apologise-Its you blog!
Stop worrying about being SO PC! Shout it out, rail against the pricks & nail your colours! You are alive, have an opinion & are passionate!
Leave the apologies to those out there who barely have a pulse between the tellie & the TV page!
Maintain the Rage!

Rita said...

Don't worry Gobbler. I'm cool with my rage, and my colours!

You've heard me about customer service - one of my passions!

I'm sure you'll hear me again about other things I am passionate about.

And yes - I AM pc - my job involves being a lot more circumspect than I would like to be - but that's how it is!

I also have not hidden, particularly, who Rita really is - so my personal and work lives DO intermingle.

I'm very aware of this, and have to build it into things I say too.

But, having said that, a lot of who I am as a person DOES come through on this blog, and I'm happy with that.

I'll leave the REALLY heavy shit to you. x

Anonymous said...

Rita-not having a go, nor questioning anything. You dont have to explain anything to us, Its you blog we respect it.
Just saying if others dont get what you are saying, well too bad, thats all. Its their problemo, not yours!
You're only here once!

Rita said...

Gobbler - I was thinking over what you said previously, and thought you maybe didn't mean it that I was too pc generally, but that you were just saying I didn't have to apologise like I did.

If that's what you meant - well I was apologising for my bad manners. I wasn't being at all pc. Just that on re-reading what I'd written afterwards, what I'd written sounded wrong without a greeting to you at the beginning of it, hence my apology.

Anonymous said...

how can a failed restaurant owner condemn others who are still around? this is a food reviewer who whilst reviewing a well known hobart restaurant split a degustation menu with his eating partner!! (as i overheard last week)

tightarse!!

Rita said...

Hi Gavin

I take your point about splitting the degustation menu. That's just not what it's all about.

But having said that, I myself can't physically eat too much. That's generally why you will notice a thread amongst many of my posts of entree-sized mains ordered.

I had a LOT of trouble with the Marque IV eight course degustation which I wrote about in April - as magnificent a meal as it was.

We didn't share the order though. We ordered separate meals but my companion DID have to finish the last 3 courses for me, after I had the tiniest nibble to sample.

So - if Graeme was sharing just to taste or sample the food, I could understand sharing.

Anyone doing the tightarse thing of trying to save money that way should be blackbanned!

Anonymous said...

Rita, Gobbler et al.
I hadn't ready the Phillips review when I first read the blog on it.
I have now and I feel terrible for the young chef. As for Phillips suggesting the chef should be given money to travel round other places to get a feel for putting it all together...what a bloody kick in the balls.
And, in the real world, Mr Phillips, most Tasmanian places (ANY places) wouldn't have the time or resources to do such a thing. Even if it was called for.
It's time to review the reviewers.
Gavin makes a point about a failed restaurateur in his response.
Does anyone have the man's history to reveal to us, without being nasty or libellous?
It would be good to know and bear in mind when reviews are being dished out.

Sir Grumpy

Rita said...

Yeah - I think we're all in agreement about this one - we all think Graeme Phillips was way too harsh about Lenna and particularly the chef.

Anonymous said...

Okay, Rita, Gobbler....we need you to go eat at lenna.
Both of you are in touch with things and could give us another view.
See it as a service to your readers and a fair shake for Lenna's chef.

What do you say guys?

Sir Grumpy.

Rita said...

I'm there! I'll eat there within a week, and check it out, then report back!

Anonymous said...

To Sir Grumpy,

GP writes for whatever cash he can get from DeGroots Media and CityLife Search Yahoo. Any eatery from A(Amulet) to Z(Zum cafe) for a fixed 200 words. He is a chain smoker on top of whatever. How long did he last in his Battery Point Brasserie / Tell me anyone?

Anonymous said...

From memory, he was at Brasserie for maybe two years? Before that - at Richmond

Anonymous said...

and he can't spell the plural of shiraz!!!

shirazes!?!?! sounds and looks like an arab trading port from the 11th century!

apparently dining within his immediate company is like being in a smoke house!

Anonymous said...

gp seems to me to be a bit over the top on a lot of things...i have been to lotus eaters and the best pie in the state and the best cafe in the state,....a bit over the top i thought...yes good honest food but the best in the state...me thinks not...cygnet is alive with great "new" places....try divinge it could "top" the best in the state also...lol