Friday, 11 April 2008

Lebrina

"A belated birthday dinner at a secret venue when you return from Canberra" was the promise Rita had made to her by a good close friend last week.

Last night was the night. Lebrina was the venue.

Rita partook of the following fine food:

Entree - Seared local abalone with crisp berkshire cross pork belly and a celeriac salad $25
Main - King Island Beef with freshly prepared horseradish, cabernet glaze and potato puree $39
Dessert - Malt creme brulee with citrus icecream - $17.50

She also sampled, courtesy of her exceedingly generous friend:
Entree - Double cooked cheese souffle of Ashgrove Cheddar
Main - Berkshire cross pork shoulder with sage leek pudding, braised red cabbage, apple butter and pan juices

My thoughts:

Lebrina is a top restaurant. The atmosphere is way more sombre and formal than somewhere like, say, Marque IV. It is one of the rare places (nowadays) where you have your vegetables silver served with your mains. I feel it is a place that is suited for a romantic evening, especially if you want to splurge and spoil your best beloved. It is the place where, if I were a bloke, I'd take my girlfriend to propose to her. It's a special place. Not frivolous. Not noisy. Not overwhelming. Linen napkins.

my abalone - lovely
my beef - fine
my dessert - absolutely the most breath-taking dessert ever!
friend's cheese souffle - gorgeous
friend's pork - tender, tasty

My main course, in any other restaurant, would be called steak, jus and mash. If you are a regular Rita reader, you'll remember the great Le Provencal post from mid-last year, when Rita had the temerity to order a well done steak at Le Provencal, then report that fact back on the blog. This seemed to elicit the most amazing response from all and sundry ever! In fact 106 comments from memory!

It was, quite rightly, pointed out that as Rita was in a French restaurant, why would she bother ordering a well done steak. Rita's response was that she had ordered it because it was on the menu, and she loves a well done steak! And that's what she had at Lebrina. Possibly my waiter went out to the kitchen after taking my order and heaped a fair amount of shit on the uncouth moron wanting her KI beef 'well done'. Maybe not. I'm not too fussed - I like it WD.

The service was absolutely spot-on. The standard of food, and variety of options on the menu, was everything you'd expect from all that has ever been written or spoken about Lebrina.

But - do you sense a 'but' coming? It just felt bereft of life for me. I didn't connect with it. I couldn't fault it, but I just didn't feel 'at home' there. I'm sorry Lebrina. I feel like I've let you down. But I know that people can read things I DON'T write on this blog, as well as what I DO write, and I can't disguise my feeling of a lack of connection to this beautiful place.

Once again, I thank my beautiful and devoted friend for taking me there, especially as the main reason was the thought that my website was incomplete without a review of this favoured restaurant.

19 comments:

Anonymous said...

fantastic review! I whole-heartedly agree!

Anonymous said...

You didn't connect because you are a well done steak eating bogan.

Rita said...

Anon 12.21 - that was a REALLY productive comment - NOT! Please don't drive with that kind of attitude as I'm sure you'd also countenance road rage.
Obviously you are also a regular at Lebrina and thus extremely loyal to the venue? Congratulations - I'm positive they embrace your custom and attitude in their dining rooms of excellence.

Anonymous said...

You critic restaurants so I think it's time somebody reviewed you....

Anonymous said...

Unfortunately Lebrina is one of those places that leaves me cold too. Sometimes its for no particular reason and sometimes its for very good reason. Either way, there's nothing wrong with telling it like it is.

Rita said...

Anon 8.24 - do you actually know what a blog is?
Loosely speaking, it's an online diary. You write your thoughts online, on your blog. Maybe someone will chance on them online and also read your 'diary'. It's out there, on the public domain, so they CAN.
But it's no great shakes. It's just one person's opinion. It's my diary. I love it when others get into my head (online) and conduct an (online) conversation with me about subjects which interest me.
I'm not critic-ing restaurants. I write about my experience in any particular eating place. If you think I need to be reviewed, leave it. The solution is easy - just don't read the blog.
I don't consider my opinion as being special, or different than anyone elses in the world. The only difference is that I write my thoughts down here on my blogsite. Apparently for you to be belligerent about.
Kitty - interesting that it leaves you cold too. On another subject - have you made your cheese?

Anonymous said...

Top review Rita. You showed courage to express reservations about an iconic restaurant like Lebrina, and to confess that you ordered your steak well done. I hope you didn’t order a strawberry milkshake to go with the steak.

Personally I love Lebrina as a special occasion restaurant for celebrating important events like birthdays and anniversaries. I understand your feelings about the lack of connection, a bit like I understand the feelings of people who dislike having to dress up in formal attire.

Do you think anonymous 12.21 was your daughter?

Cheers

Curly

Anonymous said...

If anon 12.21 was your daughter then she sucked you in again Rita.

Anonymous said...

I wish some of my good close friends would take me to Lebrina for my birthday Rita. How do you manage that?

Rita said...

I don't think Anon 12.21 was a daughter of mine, mostly because none of my daughters would be either up that late at night, or if they were, would be too comatose to bother looking at the blog, or to comment!

I don't know HOW I manage it, Mehitabel; it must be just my charisma, or maybe they like me lots? Who can fathom friendships? Thank god I've got some fabulous friends though. They provide me with great support and love.

Anonymous said...

no cheese yet, strangely hard to find the clear day needed. started a new job, middle son's 18th and and now about to travel - can't abandon baby cheeses the way you can the kids....
PS hope you had a lovely birthday - this year, may all your steaks be well done.

Anonymous said...

Agreed.. amazing food and service but oddly uncomfortable.

Anonymous said...

For all it's faults - none that I can detect - I say that it is one of the best restaurant in Oz and I have eaten in a few !!!

The boys from Lebrina have been doing it well for so long and with a passion. I have worked with several of their apprentices over they years and they too have the love of food.


My chefs hat come off to them - something to aspire to.

and guess what ... it's here in Sloebart.

Cool Room

Anonymous said...

The thing that I get about Lebrina is that they are marching to their own beat, not slipping in & out of fashion nor slaves to it.
This makes them unique in a landscape of restaurants that are keen to keep up with the Joneses, here & on the mainland.
In this modern time where we seem so preoccupied with the shiny & the flashy, it stands out as a beacon of fine & considered cooking, excellent & thoughful service, like an antidote & a connection to what it means to be 'restored' in a restaurant.

Anonymous said...

Antiquated comes to mind?!

Lonie Polony said...

Good on you for ordering your steaks well done. I also like my meat well done, even - gasp! - kangaroo, and - sacrilege! - salmon and tuna.

In my opinion, if a paying customer wants to 'ruin' the flavour/texture/whatever by ordering meat or fish how they like to eat it, that's their own prerogative.

Anonymous said...

Hi Rita, we have been contemplating going to Lebrina for some time as my husband I love to eat out in Hobart ranging from the Fish and Chippery to places like Lebrina. We have never actually been to Lebrina because of reviews and comments like yours. I have not heard one positive comment in 6 years that we have been living in Hobart apart from how great the food is. And that is not enough. My sister went there recently for her wedding anniversary and was impressed with the food, but she said she and her husband virtually sat in silence because they were too scared to talk, there was one other couple in their small room whispering to each other. Sister and brotherinlaw said they jsut couldnt have a conversation and enjoy the atmosphere (what there was of it). Just this week another couple and my husband agreed to go to Lebrina - safety in numbers approach. But I think I will send them a link to your blog and see if they are still keen!

LT

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Anonymous said...

I disagree completely with the comments on Lebrina's atmosphere. My wife and I had a great night on Sat, food was brilliant, service was spot on and engaging, and the atmosphere was comfortable and relaxed. Certainly not intimidating.

Would also take a small group there without any concerns.

Also ate recently at:
Plum - food was generally good but tried a bit too hard in some dishes, and service was awkward.
Moorilla - superb food, service and wine for a small group.