Had two very interesting conversations with two people yesterday which gave Rita the proverbial ‘food for thought’ about the issue of writing about dining experiences in Hobart.
The first chat was with Mark Goodluck, Executive Chef at Lenna. Mark was a great speaker at a breakfast yesterday so Rita nabbed him for a heart-to-heart when he tried to leave. I had been feeling particularly bad about my Lenna ramblings last year. If you remember, I was reasonably incensed about GP’s seemingly unkind and harsh review of Alexanders at Lenna in The Mercury, so resolved to support this esteemed restaurant by going along with a friend to eat there the week following GP’s review.
To my dismay, I had to pretty well agree with what Graham had said about the food. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t fabulous either, so Rita reported exactly that.
I confessed to Mark as to my alias, then we proceeded to have a reasonably lengthy talk about those issues of last year’s Lenna reviews. We spoke about the ethics of reviewing, as well as the use of honesty and integrity when reviewing restaurants. I could have had this very valuable exchange with Mark for another hour, but we both had things to do.
A second chat was with another hospitality business owner at the same breakfast. I think he would prefer anonymity so won’t mention his business name, but his views on the hospitality industry in Hobart in today’s current economic climate were also very interesting.
The conversation with both guys made me re-look at the blog and ponder about exactly what is achieved, or not, by maintaining this means of communication with like-minded members of Hobart’s dining-out population.
I’m not saying I want to give it away, but I honestly don’t want to cause anyone stress or grief in life merely by writing thoughts in this very public forum. Life itself is stressful enough with everyday hassles without someone adding to the mix by poking at the jackjumper’s nest and possibly stirring up emotions in this way.
I’ll keep on the way I am for the time being, but will always analyse the why’s and wherefores.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I believe this week is the final weeks trading for Express Café at New Town Station Nursery. The dialogue on this blog a few weeks ago about this cafe bought out a lot of very definite feelings about the way the whole change of manangement issue was dealt with. Reading between the lines, it appeared that both sides of the argument added comments to the blog, which provided both parties with the chance to state their case. I know Tassiegal for one is extremely upset about loosing her favourite venue as her regular haunt. She will cease patronizing the café when the current owners Bec and Steve leave, as it appears many others will as well.
I heard a buzz that renowned restaurant critic, Gordon Ramsey, was expected to dine at Wrest Point the other night. All preparations were made but the great man failed to show.
Wednesday, 4 June 2008
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17 comments:
Hang in there Rita, your reveiws are well measured, never nasty & always about letting your readers know what you thought of the place first & foremost.
Yes criticism is difficult, god knows I struggle with it, however like it or not, restaurants & cafes have to deal with it.
It says a lot about your integrity as a person though to take on board the implications of what you might write about a place, be it possibly negative.
Without sounding dismissive & I know you have many many readers, but the restaurant or cafe that gets overly concerned by the opinions of a blogger( AND I am at pains to say your weild much influence here!)is perhaps being tooparanoid. Its not like we have the readership of The Mercury is it?
Stick at what you are doing, we all appreciate the effort it takes & also that it might put you on the outer at times & on the pointy end of someones ire.
Thanks Gobbler. I don't believe I wield any influence at all, but am flattered by your impression of same anyway! And yes, I admit that when I'm writing something relatively negative about a restaurant, my solace is the thought that I just don't have the readership of The Mercury, so no one will see it!
I was faced yesterday with the realism of talking to someone who I had previously found myself in the position of having to be negative on my blog about, and that didn't make me easy. But - I figured that as I try very hard to be as honest and fair as I can be here, I had also to front up to Mark and do the 'right' thing. His indirect comments to me showed me there are many out there who have felt slighted by both my and my commenters words on the blog here, and that's pretty scary. Mark wasn't rude, or angry, or anything like that. He was really good. But I sensed a lot behind what he said.
As I said, I'm continuing to do as I have previously done, but am constantly aware of the implications thereof.
I am not connected to the industry in any way, but like the Gobbler, I find your reviews well-balanced and never nasty or spiteful. You always look to justify criticism (which is good), and I don’t think that ‘ceasing the dialogue’ will help.
In a different context, I have just completed the final report for an 18-month project that contained a number of observations and assertions that I know will (and already has) upset a number of people and organisations. However, I wouldn’t have made those points if I didn’t feel that highlighting problems was necessary in identifying gaps in service delivery, and the improvement of service levels in the future. I have seen it and measured, it would be the bigger ‘wrong’ to not report on it. We’re all adults, and criticism comes with the territory in service industries. As long as you’re secure in your reasoning and don’t get snide or malicious, you can’t control how someone else chooses to respond.
For what it is worth, I think that what you are doing here is worthwhile, and I certainly appreciate the effort that you put in. I certainly have more faith in your reviews than the local rag!
Hi Rita
Me too - I agree with Gobbler and Kris. I have read quite a few of your reviews, and have tried out restaurants on the strength of the positive ones (sometimes restaurants I hadn't heard about elsewhere, such as Kawasemi in Moonah - and I would not normally have ventured north of the Latte line for culinary experiences).
Your comments seem balanced, noting both what you liked and what you didn't. I can make a bit of a judgement as to whether I might share the same view, or whether, on the strength of your often detailed reviews, a particular venue might not suit me or my fellow diners. I don't dine out anywhere near as often as I would like, so I want each experience to be as good as possible, and don't want to waste a night out on a venue that isn't going to match my expectations.
Please keep up the good work, give us the full reviews, and we can make our own judgements as to whether we agree or not!
regards
Susannah
Rita.
People read and participate in your blog - therefore it is an important part of reflecting on the ins and outs of the industry.
Rita you said :"I honestly don’t want to cause anyone stress or grief in life merely by writing thoughts in this very public forum" - may I suggest that any stress or grief felt by an operator after an airing on your blog was most likely of there own making anyway, your blog did not cause it to happen.
My guess is that your favourable reviews have done an untold amount of good for the industry - just ask people like Luke & Katrina and et al.
If you weighed the good and bad I am of the opinion that the good would outweigh the bad .
A good example of the importance of your blog is in your original post, you mentioned a conversation you had with an business owner:
Rita: "but his views on the hospitality industry in Hobart in today’s current economic climate were also very interesting"
I for one would like more detail of your discussion, it helps operators and owners build up a picture of what is happening in food land - yes it may be something many don't want to hear but it has to be said.
"You can't eat a duck without first plucking the feathers"
Cool Room
Have to agree with the other comments - you actually create extra business for restaurants.
By the way does anyone know of a good restaurant doing an ozmas dinner? I gather Hadleys might be doing something, any one have recent experience there re quality of food?
If people didn't review restaurants then they would all get away with being second-rate and no one would bother on improving.
Whilst they may not like the 'stress and grief' I don't like spending $100 for bad night out either. Strees and grief is all part of running a business.
Restaurants are still business' (which I think many people in the industry tend to forget and is the industries biggest flaw) and as such do not automatically deserve a living. They have to compete and gain customers, those that can't measure up should get bad reviews and should close.
Rather than the owner of Lenna's approach (for example) which is simply to object when-ever a new business attempts to open nearby and stifle competition.
Chin up, Rita. We are all reviewers and critics. Hey, savour your opinions, or else you'll become a robot!
Whether in print or on radio or TV, we love hearing about books, CDs, movies, food, restaurants etc.
Even by word of mouth with friends and colleagues we spell out how good or bad all those are.
Even those people you spoke were critics...having their say about people having their say!
If it is balanced and accurate and free from malice then fair enough.
You summed it by saying there was some buzz about Ramsay visiting Wresty (!). We'd all like to be a fly on that wall.
The reviewer is someone who has opinions and feels passionate enough, and confident enough about their knowledge of their area of interest, to express those opinions. The ATTITUDE they bring to their criticism is ALL important.
If we accept the above definition as a starting point, I don't think you have anything to worry about, Rita.
The best criticism inspires further debate - again, Rita, you seem to be on safe ground.
Sometimes it is necessary to be CRITICAL of things that do not seem to be right. The important thing is to be specific about what is wrong and to make, where possible, constructive suggestions for improvement. Feathers will occasionally get ruffled. If you are consistent and are seen to have integrity, you will be respected by most people, even when others do not share your opinion.
In life it is often necessary to speak up in order for things to improve. Also, when we have praise to give, we do have some role in offering reinforcement and help to encourage excellence.
Rita - During the time of yours and GP's reviews of our restaurant, I was F&B Manager at Lenna (I still work there, now in a difference capacity as I'm studying again). I'm an avid follower of your blog and just wanted to leave comment on your posting today.
Firstly, there are vast differences in the nature and content of your reviews and those of others (The Mercury's food 'critic', for example). Anon2 (5:49) sums it up nicely I beleive: The attitude with which a 'critique' is constructed, is really what it's all about. What I like about your reviews and comments about establishments around Hobart is that they are humble. You don't profess to be anything more than a lover of fine food and good service; not an expert and as you said today certainly not with the knowledge that you yield great influence. The dialogue that is stimulated by your entries is encouraging and draws attention to the industry, all with benevolent intent and perhaps results.
Feathers may be ruffled on occassion and perhaps egos bruised, but ultimately it is the type of people that SHOULD be working in and leading the establishments in our industry that can take such dialogue on the chin and use it to their benefit.
From my perspective, as someone who has worked (albeit rather briefly) at running a business in this highly competitive and indeed sensitive industry, it is people like yourself that are doing us all a favour and not a disservice. You write with consistency, integrity and honesty, with the ultimate well being of the hospitality trade in mind. Something that certainly cannot be said for others; Hobart's washed-out hospitality cronies.
Don't stop doing what you're doing. Our industry needs stimulus, it needs communication and it needs feedback. There is nothing more valuable to a business, especially when it's constructive and respectful!
My very dear friend Rita, I think you have been shown by all these posts how valued and respected you are. I know how deeply you feel when you may have "Ruffled" Someones feathers but as you can see from all these wonderful comments to your blog you have become somneone we all rely on. Please dont stop, i know that you have had these doubts before but as a lot of these comments are saying, you are doing more good than Harm. As i am so far away, your blogs are also a link to home for me. So please Rita keep up the good, honest and fair veiws and opinons you list for all of us to see. Your Friend in QLD
Yes Rita, Ramsey did pop down to Tassie. He called by my house, looked up your website and told me to tell you to "SHUT IT DOWN!" He then left muttering something about maiming Sir Frumpy, whoops I mean Sir Grumpy.
Food Nazi
Dear Rita,
I think I understand how awkward it must feel to face up to someone whose work or restaurant you may have made negative comments about. However Rita, this is a small price to pay for all the positive things that come out of your blog site.
I am not in the hospitality industry and I have only a basic appreciation of food related issues. Your blog has opened up an exciting world that I didn’t know existed. Eating out has become an adventure, do I go to an old favourite or do I give somewhere new a try, like the Pigeon Hole or maybe Kawasemi. Also your blog has made me aware of the people who work in hospitality and I just feel more comfortable going into restaurants knowing a bit of history (I almost think of Paul Foreman as a best mate).
While you may feel pain from negative feedback, I suspect that you rarely get to hear about the positive effects of your blog. I was at Flathead for lunch just after you had given it a favourable review. Joff, the owner of Flathead, had read your review and was obviously pleased with it, not just for Flathead, but for the confidence boost it gave to his first year apprentice who was doing the cooking that night. I’m sure your mainly positive comments on other establishments are similarly appreciated, you just don’t get to hear about it.
In some cases I have felt there has been a total over-reaction to mildly critical comments you have made. Lebrina springs to mind and the Lebrina supporters did their restaurant a disservice by their aggressive attack on your credibility. From my reading of your review the Lebrina food was superb you just had a problem with the ambience. This has also been a problem for others and I think the Lebrina management should be grateful to have it brought to their attention. That is unless they have deliberately set out to make their patrons feel as if they are in a reference library. Lebrina is certainly not the place you would go with your PFO friends from your big night out at Le Provencal.
Finally, I want to question the influence a blog site like yours has on the community relative to a newspaper like the Mercury. I am a daily subscriber to the Mercury but, apart from the political analysis columns on Saturday, I don’t find it a great source of information. In fact I often wonder why I bother with it. I read your blog site with far more interest. Also, I tell people about things I have read on your blog. For example, I would have told maybe ten people I know about the Fawlty Towers incident and advised them not to go there with a mobile phone. They were all amazed and I am sure told their friends in turn. So if you have 1000 unique visitors to your site in a week it could result in 10,000 people hearing of an incident reported on one of your posts.
I think I will kill myself if you stop blogging Rita.
Yours affectionately,
Curly
I am humbled by all these words of encouragement. Thanks to everyone.
Kris - your opinions and report on service delivery obviously can be transposed into any context, and you're right. Thanks.
Susannah - that's exactly the picture I set out to paint - to give people some kind of idea as to what a place is 'about', so you can genuinely get a bang for your buck if you decide to go there. I'm pleased you venture north of the latte line as well!
My old friend Cool Room - love your analogy about duck plucking! And of course, yes, you're 100% correct. The discussion I had with the other business owner was basically me raising the topic which we have spoken about recently here regarding smaller, newish businesses and how (will?) they survive over this upcoming winter/quieter period. As his business falls into that category, and he reads my blog, I felt comfortable speaking to him about it. That's a reason why he attended the breakfast, which was organised to address issues of attracting and retaining Gen Y employees.
Stephen - I haven't heard of any restaurants to date doing the Ozmas thing, but did see one in Melb the other day advertising for it!
Forde - thanks to you too. A controversial little sting in the tail at the end there about the owner of Lenna. I don't know anything about that but you obviously do!
Sir G - as ever, you hit the nail on the head. Yes, we DO all like to critique things like movies, food etc, and of course we want to be a fly on the wall during the Ramsey visit!
Anon2 - I take what you say as high praise, given your status as a reviewer yourself. Thank you.
Carte Noire - you touched me deeply with your words. I don't think I'd be exagerating to say they bought tears to my eyes. What you said was an expression of thoughts I myself have had in the past whenever I have been trying to justify to myself during a writing (a blog posting) period, feeling that I really don't like 'bagging the crap' out of somewhere. I am faced with being honest about how I felt versus not wanting to be so negative, but honesty alwayds wins out. I'm SO pleased that somehow, people seem to 'get' that.
Friend in Qld - I won't stop. Thanks.
Food Nazi - OK, will shut it down NOW! Not!
Curly - as I don't want to have blood on my hands, I'll resume business as usual. Glad to hear about Joff's apprentice, and that too is another reason to keep on with it. Lebrina was interesting, and yes, even though I actually said I couldn't fault the food or service, I seemed to cop a hell of a lot of shit for that review! Once again, being honest about my feelings seemed to lead me astray! Glad you have found Paul Foreman as your new best friend via my blog, too! Thank you.
Rita At the risk of boring bloggers - it is worth a read, I have edited it a bit but the sentiment remains the same.
As Costs Keep Rising, Restaurateurs Find Creative Ways to Cope
NY Times wed edition today.
Published: June 4, 2008
At Maple Garden, a Shanghai-style restaurant in Flushing, Queens, rice is no longer served automatically with every meal.
Annie Tritt for The New York Times
Mina Jones dines on pancakes, still with fresh blueberries on the plate, at Good Enough to Eat.
Enlarge This Image
Uli Seit for The New York Times
Vicki Cutting at the Catch. Her brother, Mark, behind her with Janel Jacobs, a server, is among family members pitching in.
At Good Enough to Eat, a brunch spot on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, diners will have to pay $2 extra for the walnut and raisin topping that used to come with the cinnamon swirl French toast.
At the Catch, a year-old Barbadian restaurant in St. Albans, Queens, Vicki Cutting is hoping her customers will not notice that the portions of pudding and souse, a traditional dish, are slightly smaller than they were a few months ago.
All across New York City, cooks, chefs and restaurateurs are struggling to cope with soaring costs of many of their basic ingredients, including flour, eggs, rice and cooking oil. “Everything is going up at once” is a universal complaint among them, so they are devising all sorts of strategies to avoid having to pass the brunt of the price increases on to their customers.
Some are cutting back on waiters and kitchen help, others are staying open longer or expanding their offerings to increase sales. One sheepishly admitted that she had started adding the sales tax to customer’s bills rather than raise the prices printed on her elaborate, laminated menus.
Driven by the surging price of oil and a shift by farmers to produce corn to make ethanol, the cost of food has been rising at an exceptionally fast pace. Last month, the federal Labor Department reported that prices for food and drinks in the New York metropolitan area had risen 5.3 percent in a year, the biggest increase in any 12-month period since 1990.
“This is the worst we’ve seen in three decades,” said E. Charles Hunt, executive vice president of the New York State Restaurant Association.
Q
Hey Food Nazi, I have kicked the arse of bigger bullies than Gordon Ramsay.
Rita,
Thanks for breakfast on Tuesday. My friend and i found it very informative. I enjoyed meeting you finally! I think the comments posted here show that you have opened up many people to the food industry which can only be a good thing. I encourage you to keep doing what you are doing. As a hospitality business owner I hope that you do come into my business and tell me or your readers what you think. I am happy to take any feedback whether it good or bad. I think this is the only way to move forward in the food business. I am always encouraging friends and family to come in and give me their HONEST feedback. Sometimes it is hard to swallow the negatives but i try and wear on the chin and improve it.
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